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A trip to Hawaii’s Big Island invites visitors to ho`ohau`oli (do fun things), of which there are many to enjoy
Waikoloa’s spectacular Beach Course on the Big Island has holes carved through the black a'a lava and offers dramatic vistas of Anaeho 'omalu Bay.
Photo courtesy of Waikoloa Beach Course
With a landmass of 4,028 square miles and a coastline that stretches for 266 miles, Hawaii’s Big Island is twice the combined size of the state’s other five islands.
Appreciating that Kïlauea, the most active volcano in the world, is still erupting the Big Island continues to grow. Measuring from sea level to the peak of Mauna Kea, the island has a summit of 13,796 feet, which is 746 feet higher than Colorado’s Arapahoe Basin ski area (13,050 feet) and taller than 48 of that state’s named mountains.
To put it plainly, the Big Island is, well, big. So big, in fact, it is second only to Oahu in number of golf courses with 22 (Oahu lists 36). And more courses are either currently under construction or in various stages of design.
As visitors are on approach to the Kona International Airport near Kailua-Kona, it is hard to visualize that a golf course — let alone nearly two dozen of them — exists. A look out the window of the plane as it descends reveals a barren landscape of volcanic rock as far as the eye can see.
However, not long after jumping behind the wheel of a rental car or boarding the resort shuttle and heading north on Queen Kaahumanu Highway (Hwy 19) toward the 40-mile-long Kohala Coast, that stark scenery gradually turns lush, weaving a tapestry comprised of black a’a and reddish-brown pahoehoe lava rock, verdant fairways and stands of palms, and the varied blue hues of the Pacific Ocean.
Referred to by some as “The Gold Coast,” the Kohala Coast is home to many of the island’s resorts, places where golfers are wowed by gorgeous layouts whose seaside holes say e komo mai (welcome in Hawaiian) to an unforgettable golf experience.
MORE COURSES THAN VACATION TIME
Of the earth’s 13 climatic regions, the Big Island has 11, missing only the Saharan and the Arctic regions. Naturally, the tropical climate lends itself to year-round golfing and though there is a smattering of courses at higher elevations, the majority of the courses are found on or near the shoreline.
Toward the more northerly end of the island golfers find the highest concentration of courses, including Hamakua Country Club, Hapuna, Mauna Kea, Hualalai, Waikoloa, and Mauna Lani. The last three resorts mentioned each has two courses.
The central west coast boasts the Kona Country Club, which features a formidable duo: the Alii Mountain Course and the Ocean Course. Makalei Golf Club and Big Island Country Club also are among the Kohala Coast’s Upcountry Golf Trail courses.
Don’t let the country club monikers dissuade you from thinking the courses are reserved for “members only.” The once private venues are now daily fee courses.
Measuring 7,117-yards from the mahope tees (5,374 from the mua tees), the par 72 Jack Nicklaus Signature Course at Four Seasons Hualalai has the length of many Colorado, Utah and Wyoming mountain course layouts — and it is equally as challenging.
On the front nine, skills are tested on two par-3s, five par-4s and two par-5s, with added drama provided by Hole 7, a par-5 playing 556 yards downhill towards the Pacific. A treat, especially if a birdie is carded, is the par-3 Hole 5, a 205-yarder with a lake running nearly tee to green along the right side.
Holes 10 through 15 on the back nine can reward (or confound) golfers as they tee it up on two par-3s, five par-4s and two par-5s. Without question, Hole 17 wins for best ocean view. The par-3 beauty plays 164 yards from the tips straight towards the Pacific.
Regardless of what score is penciled in, golfers are awed by the contrast of colors between the emerald fairways and greens against the black of the a’a lava that surrounds the course.
GREENS AND BROWN
Named after Francis H. I’i Brown, who in the 1930s began acquiring the property that is now the Mauna Lani Resort, the North and South I’i Brown courses are as beguiling as they are beautiful.
Playing 5,128 yards from the forward tees and 6,938 yards from the black tees, the par 72 South Course features two par-3s, five par-4s and two par-5s, with Hole 7 deserving applause for its good looks and second thought evoking ability.
Though the green is only 214 yards away (109 yards from the fronts), a stiff breeze off the ocean combines with a left greenside bunker to demand precise shot making.
Comprised of two par-5s, five par-4s and two par-3s the back nine brings the most water into play, with Hole 15 garnering the most raves. Best known for confounding players at the Senior Skins Game, the par 3 requires a 196-yard carry over the Pacific to a green protected by five bunkers. Similar to Hualalai’s layout, The South Course is also woven into the pitch-black a’a lava.
Built primarily on a prehistoric pahoehoe lava bed, the North Course plays 6,913 yards from the championship tees, and 5,383 yards from the forward tees. In contrast to its sister course, this layout plays a bit more upcountry — away from the ocean — and is characterized by stands of twisted, leafy kiawe (mesquite) trees that line most fairways.
Surrounding the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii Resort, the course has two par-5s, five par-4s and two par-3s on the front nine, only bringing the ocean into play on Hole 2 before leading golfers upcountry through Hole 6, then back down to finish at the ocean on Number 9. The course returns players to higher ground on Holes 10 through 18, knocking their soft spikes off with Hole 17. A par- 3, it plays 132 yards from the back of an elevated tee box (just 91 yards from the middle tees) to a green protected by a six-story amphitheater of lava and guarded by a trio of bunkers. Taking a photo here is a must.
E KOMO MAI TO WAIKOLOA
No matter if you are a guest of the Fairmont Orchid, Mauna Lani, the Hilton Waikoloa Village or Four Seasons Hualalai, a visit to either the King’s Course or the Beach Course is worth consideration.
Playing at 7,074 yards (5,459 yards from the forward tees), the par 72 King’s Course was designed by Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish whose Scottish-links inspired layout features six lakes, around 75 bunkers, including some devilishly deep pot bunkers, and lava outcroppings.
Two par-5s, five par-4s and two par-3s describe both the front and back nine, and the real test here is whether or not you can keep your ball down the middle. The farther the ball strays from the center of the fairway, the trickier the lie as the first cut and the rough slope upward.
For those whose vacation only allows time to play one Waikoloa layout, choose the Beach Course. Between having all the holes carved through the black a’a lava and enjoying vistas of Anaeho'omalu Bay, this par 70, and 6,566-yard masterpiece outdoes its sibling.
Of the two par-3s, six par-4s and lone par-5 on the front nine, four bring water into play. Hole 7, a 205-yard par-3, calls for a forced carry over a large pond on the way to (hopefully) a par or even a birdie.
Holes 11, 12 and 13 take the spotlight on the back nine, which features two par-5s, four par-4s and three par-3s. Without question, 12 earns top honors as “best oceanfront hole,” a par-5 dogleg left stretching 502 yards.
Those planning their golf vacation between November and April should keep a keen eye out for whales that are migrating. Primarily humpbacks, the 30- to 35-ton giants regularly breach the water’s surface, often close to shore.
SOFT PILLOWS AND SAVORY CUISINE
Recognizing that many choose travel packages as a preferred way to tee it up on the island, any one of the resorts easily accommodates golf aficionados.
Expert at providing its acclaimed “high touch” yet unobtrusive service is Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu. Hidden from view from Hwy 19 by the volcanic topography, this 243-room resort reveals itself only after a drive down a long, winding road. At the end of that road is an idyllic kipuka (oasis) defined by bungalow-style guest rooms, each featuring private lanais and soothing ocean views.
With lush gardens and very private outdoor lava rock showers, the ground-level rooms and suites enhance the tropical experience for guests. Dining at Pahu i`a, the resorts’ anchor restaurant is a delight, if only for the setting 50 feet from the Pacific and the pahu i`a (aquarium) patrons admire upon arrival.
Though it occupies 32 acres and has 540 guest rooms, the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii feels intimate, and the staff is friendly and attentive. Massage therapists at its outdoor Spa Without Walls vanquish guests’ stress in private huts or in oceanfront cabanas. Of its five restaurants and three lounges, the AAA Four Diamond Award property has a real winner in Brown’s Beach House. Located at the ocean’s edge, it specializes in Pacific Rim and Hawaiian regional dishes.
The Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa gives guests numerous ways to unwind with its Mandara Spa, sprawling infinity-edge pool and half-mile long swimming beach on Anaeho'omalu Bay. An amazing breakfast or dinner buffet at the Hawaii Calls restaurant puts an exclamation point on any review a guest would write about the food at this lovely, 533-room retreat. Rooms, whose new "Revive" beds from Marriott have 300-count linens and extremely fluffy pillows, feature contemporary Polynesian and Asian decor.
ALL THINGS HAWAIIAN
Thousands of years before it became America’s 50th state in 1959, Hawaii was a chain of islands believed to have been discovered by Polynesians. As makaainana (commoners) most of Hawaii's people were subjects of the chief and bound by the kapu (taboo), a system of rule that, if violated, could result in severe punishment or death.
So vivid and rich, the Hawaiian culture is something every visitor to the Islands should gain a better understanding of — and there are plenty of opportunities. Via the energetic Polynesian revue, "The Gathering of Kings,” audience members are taken on a theatrical journey that tells the story of the settlement of Samoa, Tahiti, Aotearoa (New Zealand) and Hawaii.
Staged at the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii and open to guests and non-resort guests alike, the Cirque du Soleil-style show (think fire dancers and pounding drums) and gourmet luau should not be missed.
Next door at the Mauna Lani Resort, the hotel’s Cultural Historian, Danny “Kaniela” Akaka, invites hotel guests and non-guests to enjoy a tour of the royal Kalahuipua'a fishponds, ancient petroglyphs and to learn more about Hawaiian folklore and history.
Individuals, couples, small groups and families are also welcome to join Akaka for “Twilight at Kalahuipua‘a,” a night of music, hula and storytelling occurring every month when the full moon rises. Akaka, who is a kahu (Hawaiian priest), not only speaks fluent Hawaiian, he plays the ukulele and sings as well.
Outrigger canoe paddling is Hawaii's number one competitive sport and incredibly popular with tourists. Venturing out with a Big Island Beachboy (an experienced canoeist), paddlers get a terrific upper body and cardiovascular workout plus an “insider’s” glimpse into island history and life.
Wowed by terrific golf courses, rejuvenated by spa visits, satiated by amazing meals and enlightened by indelible stories of Hawaii’s past, golfers leave the Big Island relaxed, yet already pondering a return visit, remembering the parting phrase a hui hou — until we meet again.
Kim McHugh, a Lowell Thomas award-winning writer, is the associate editor of Rocky Mountain Golf Magazine. He is still trying to figure out how those fire dancers twirl those big, flaming knives without harming themselves.
