Fabulous Los Cabos, A Golfer's Delight
The Lure of Los Cabos, Mexico
Courtesy of Palmilla Golf Club
The most important lesson a golfer learns, it has been said, is to be single-minded and not think about anything during a match but hitting the target.
This is difficult when playing on Mexico’s Los Cabos courses. The distraction isn’t just the color palette: beautifully manicured greens under a flawless blue sky and the beauty of the Sea of Cortez. The problem is more serious. Just imagine — your club is on the down swing to cinch that hole at five under par and out of the corner of your eye you spot a 50-foot whale breaking a wave on its way to its winter mating grounds. So much for under par!
Or, you’re hunched down studying the quirks of the course and suddenly an armada of giant turtles hit the beach scrambling for a nesting place to lay a hundred eggs — each. They probably won’t start until dusk, but so much for not thinking about anything but sinking a putt. But there is one thing you never have to worry about: temperatures will never drop so low as to cause the head of your club to snap when you hit the ball, as has been reported in other parts of the world, possibly even in Colorado!
Weather is almost always cloudless, warm and dry in Los Cabos, located on the southernmost tip of the Baja California Peninsula. During summer try and book an early tee time and wear a hat and sunscreen. Mid-October through April is high season, when it is advisable to use your credit card to make reservations as soon as possible for choice tee times. Rates range from $160 to $260 in high season, including a shared cart, and drops $60 or more during summer months. Rates are much lower during twilight hours. Always ask when those “variable” twilight hours start, because you could be pleasantly and economically surprised. August and September have the most rain and is also when an occasional hurricane may blow through.
LIFE BEFORE GOLF
How did Los Cabos, a narrow spit of desert land become one of the world’s fastest growing golf destinations? It didn’t start out that way. It was fish, not golf, that put Los Cabos on the map. You may have heard the story — during World War II, military pilots flying over the tip of the Baja peninsula spotted big game fish in the waters and spread the news. When the war ended, Hollywood celebrities flew down in private planes and wealthy yachtsmen anchored off the beaches in pursuit of marlin (the record catch is 1,080 pounds).
Spectacular fishing is still a big draw and the famous Bisbee Black & Blue Marlin Tournament is held in Cabo San Lucas every October; however, if a trophy catch is elusive, there are 800 other species in the sea, like delicious mahi-mahi (dorado); red snapper or tuna (ask your hotel chef to cook it up for you). Sierra, a game fish that makes excellent ceviche, is also swimming around. The late Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez the “world’s aquarium.”
HOW GOLF CAME TO LOS CABOS
The credit goes to Fonatur, Mexico’s tourism development agency, which made the decision in 1974 to turn Los Cabos, an idyllic 20-mile beachfront corridor, anchored by Cabo San Lucas on the southern tip (Land’s End) and San Jose del Cabo on the north, into a fully planned tourist area.
Included in Fonatur’s plans was the area’s first golf course, the 9-hole 3,153-yard San Jose Municipal Campo de Golf. Sold in 2004 to Mayan Resorts, the recently renovated Spanish — Arabian style club has been renamed the Mayan Country Club Los Cabos. The original designers were M. Schjetnan and Pedro Guereca, with Joe Finger as an advisor.
Tee times are on a first come basis and renovations have made it possible to play 18 holes instead of nine (by playing it twice) as there are now two different greens, different tee boxes and more bunkers. The course, which looks out over the Sea of Cortez is especially good for beginners or intermediate players. It retains its family-friendly atmosphere and even if you’re not playing golf, it is a great place to meet locals who patronize the restaurant and hang out in the popular bar. Rates can vary, but are usually around $100 for nine holes and for $44 more you can “play it again.” Golf cart rental is $38 until 1pm and free after that time. 624-142-0900.
From its modest beginning, Los Cabos has developed into one of the world’s top golfing destinations. Seven championship courses are greening up the desert landscape along the narrow twenty-mile corridor between San Jose de Cabo and Cabo San Lucas—at last count and at least four more are in progress. Two are part of the 2,000 acre Puerto Los Cabos master-planned development at La Playita, northeast of San Jose del Cabo along the Sea of Cortez.
Puerto Los Cabos is being developed on more than four miles of beachfront and hill country. The master plan includes a boat marina with 535 slips with a section set aside for local fishermen so they don’t have to move their boats and can benefit from the development; four hotels along the beach, none more than four stories high; a Mexican village-style shopping and entertainment center, waterfront restaurants and under construction up in the hills are old-style Mexican haciendas in gated sub-divisions.
The company also is helping to restore the estuary at San Jose de Cabos that was almost washed away by a hurricane a few years ago and land has been set aside for an ecological park. More than a million cactus seeds, native to the area, have been planted and in order to save as much of the native vegetation as possible, plants and trees that are in the way of roads and other construction were dug up and replanted in the park.
The Cabo Pacifica west coast development is a 1,200-acre resort project along the Pacific Ocean around the bend from the famous “El Arco” stone arch. Two championship golf courses, hotels, villas, condos, residential home sites and spectacular sunsets are all part of the project. Already in the area is the recently opened Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Holistic Retreat & Spa with guest accommodations for 150, including 20 suites. (Each room has a “pet cactus” and a book on how to care for it and in the garden are over 35,000 cactus plants.)
Upon arrival guests meet with a trained wellness specialist who plans their treatment path — relaxation, wellness or fitness. The Retreat also will arrange tee times and rents golf equipment. It’s probably best to golf before treatments so as not to risk falling asleep on the greens.
MORE NEW GOLF DEVELOPMENTS
Up and running is the recently opened Villas de Cortez golf course at the Hotel Palmas de Cortez. This course is a project of the Van Wormer Company, developers of the Villas de Cortez properties on the shores of the East Cape. The 9-hole executive par-3 course is 45 miles north of San Jose del Cabo and uses treated gray water from the resort to keep its fairways lushly green. The 1,200-yard course was built on a former airstrip runway, but don’t worry, pilots have been notified.
Features include sand traps, water hazards and two tee boxes, the whites for nine holes and blues for playing 18. Holes range from 55 yards to 115 with greens fees around $20 for nine holes, a great bargain for newcomers or to work on your short game. One of the most beautiful coves on the Sea of Cortez is in this area, known for excellent year-round fishing, windsurfing and diving.
On the Drawing Board
Eagerly awaited is the Chileno Bay Project in one of Mexico’s most beautiful beach areas along the Sea of Cortez. Located on the tourist corridor between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, the Hotel Cabo San Lucas was once considered the Capes most glamorous resort. It was built in 1961 by the late William Matt “Bud” Parr and was the preferred hangout for Hollywood celebrities who would arrive by private aircraft. The bay was originally named after Chilean pirates who preyed on Spanish galleons returning from the Philippines laden with treasures to be sent on to Spain.
According to Chileno Bay’s managing partner, Mick Humphreys, the Italian hillside village of Portofino was the inspiration for the name, Chileno Bay Club. The Club will be built on 1,300 acres surrounding the Bay and include Jack Nicklaus Signature and Tom Fazio championship courses, building lots, condominiums, an 88-slip private marina, clubhouse, beach village, tennis center and family club.
Prices are expected to range from $600,000 to $10 million. Construction is slated to begin this year and be completed in ten years. The area is one of the most beautiful along the corridor, as Bud Parr retained as much of the natural flora and fauna of the 2,500 acres as possible, while importing rubber and banana trees, coconut palms and bougainvillea to create a beautiful oasis.
On Medano Beach in Cabo San Lucas, another lovely property, formerly owned by Bud Parr, the Hotel Hacienda, was purchased by Newport Beach developer Don Koll from Parr’s heirs. Koll has been instrumental in developing many golf properties in Cabo. Condos and 250 oceanfront villas will replace the Hacienda Hotel. Condos will start at $800,000 U.S. for ocean views and oceanfront villas will start at $4,000,000 U.S.
An interesting work-in-progress is one of Grupo Questro’s newest developments, Club Campestre, a 550-acre community on the edge of the delightful town of San Jose de Cabo. Just when one thought there was no land left in the area, Grupo Questro (formerly called Grupo Cabo Real) announced a new development at San Jose del Cabo that includes not only a beautiful 18-hole golf course but a master planned resort, Club Campestre San Jose.
It will have a clubhouse surrounded, according to Grupo Questro, by 18 picture-perfect, championship-style holes of golf with spectacular Sea of Cortez views. And there is no reason to doubt the company that is also behind the massive development of Puerto Los Cabos, just north of San Jose del Cabo on the other side of the estuary.
LIFE BEFORE OR AFTER GOLF
Yes, there is something more to life than golf, especially in Los Cabos and most activities are not too extreme. Probably the most challenging are ATV tours, especially if you’re a daring, inexperienced rider. It can be fun racing up and down tall sand dunes, but try to control your speed and when riding trails through cactus fields, remember that falls can be prickly.
A canter along the beach or on trails through the mountains atop a gentle steed is a pleasant way to start a morning. Water sports are endless and include parasailing, jet skiing, sea kayaking in the playground of sea lions, dolphins and whales, plus surfing, snorkeling and scuba diving. The Cabo San Lucas Bay has been declared an Underwater Park and Marine Sanctuary and especially interesting is the Submarine Canyon where you can see underwater sand-falls and massive schools of fish.
A sunset cruise around El Arco aboard a pirate ship actually built in 1885 is a nice way to wind down or, enjoy dinner on a luxury catamaran. And don’t forget that whales cruise by between January and March from the Bering Sea. Boat tours are available for a close-up experience, sometimes even close enough to touch or to witness the birth of a grey whale. Hundreds migrate to Los Cabos from Alaska from January through April.
Los Cabos Golf Courses
Courses already in full swing line the coastline of the Los Cabos 20-mile corridor from Cabo San Lucas at the tip end to San Jose del Cabo, starting with the Raven Golf Club near Cabo San Lucas, known as the “party town,” and ending at the 9-hole Mayan Palace Golf Los Cabos near the quieter, pleasant town of San Jose del Cabo, but it won’t be long before new courses on both the north and south ends of Los Cabos will be up and running.
Presently, in order of appearance starting near “Land’s End” at the southern tip of the corridor, golf clubs include the Raven, Cabo del Sol Desert and Ocean courses, Cabo Real, El Dorado, Palmilla, Querencia and Los Cabos’ first course, the 9-hole Mayan Country Club at San Jose del Cabo.
Raven Golf Club
While the view is spectacular from every golf course in Los Cabos, the Raven is the only club with a view of Land’s End, that great stone arch that appears in every story about Los Cabos. It was originally named the Cabo San Lucas Country Club.
Designed by Roy Dye, the course is playable for beginners through professionals, but is especially course-friendly for beginners and intermediate golfers. The signature hole is 13 while Hole 7, at 620-yards, par-5, is the longest in Mexico. In 2002 the name was changed from the Los Cabos Country Club to the Raven. Watch out for water hazards and scenic views that can easily take your mind off your golf game and be aware that the road sign leading to the club may still read, The Los Cabos Country Club.” U.S. (888) 328-8501, (624) 143-4653
Cabo del Sol Golf Club Desert Course
A Tom Weiskopf-designed inland layout has 180-degree views of the Sea of Cortez from almost every hole and the designer calls it one of the most scenic courses he has designed. Varying in length from 4,810 to 7,097 yards with five sets of tees, it takes advantage of natural river washes, changes in elevations and dramatic bunkering.
The course offers challenges for every level of golfer with meandering water courses, changes in elevation, and arroyo carries to enhance the game. The large clubhouse offers a welcome respite for golfers after a challenging round. U.S. (866) 231-4677, (624) 145-8200.
Cabo del Sol - Ocean Course
Ranked Number 67 in the world according to Golf Magazine, the Ocean course sets the standard for long and tough in Los Cabos. The course offers several holes with difficult to judge carries over arroyos, which is typical of desert golf. It also offers five holes with exceptional exposure to the Sea of Cortez and the excitement of spying a whale breaching during the height of the season, which is not typical of desert golf. Holes 5 and 17 are ranked among the top 500 holes in the world. Jack Nicklaus describes the three finishing holes as “the best three finishing holes along the ocean in the world.” U.S. (866) 231-4677, (624) 145-8200.
Cabo Real Golf Club
Robert Trent Jones designed two nines that play so differently, you wonder if you are still on the same course. The front nine is long and tough, challenging the best golfer. The second nine is more strategic and can be played well by all levels. There are a couple of holes along the ocean to enhance the excitement. Cabo Real is a popular course with the locals because of the variety of holes and it always seems less crowded. It opened in 1994 and has three beautiful oceanfront holes. U.S. (877) 795-8727, (624) 144-0040.
El Dorado Golf Club
This spectacular Jack Nicklaus signature designed course recently has changed from a public to private course. Two of the six holes along the ocean are right on the beach. A rugged course that goes from the beach through the mountains, it has about 90 bunkers and the course is rather tricky. It is said that accuracy is the key not only to a successful game but also to having a ball left to finish the game. There are four lakes; six holes are close to the Sea of Cortez and the final 12 are desert holes. Course length is 7,152 yards. U.S. (800-393-0400, (624) 144-5451.
Palmilla Golf Club
The 27 holes designed by Jack Nicklaus offer varying degrees of challenge. The Arroyo nine is the shortest and most strategic. An excellent golfer can try to drive two of the par fours and can hit a second shot to the greens of the par fives. The Mountain nine is the toughest, with the signature fifth hole that requires two arroyo carries with changes in elevation each time. This is one of the best holes in golf. The Ocean nine has one hole along the ocean and several with difficult to judge carries over arroyos. It offers the prettiest hole in Lob Cabos, the par-3 fourth, with multi-colored bougainvillea surrounding the green and tee areas. These three nines offer a great selection of golf holes and plenty of challenge for all levels of play. U.S. (800) 637-2226, (624) 144-5250.
Querencia Golf Club
Opened in 2000, this membership-only, Tom Fazio-designed 18-hole course also has a nine hole short course plus a practice facility and a 26,000-square-foot clubhouse. It sits on 840-acres on the other side of the highway from the Sea of Cortez.
Querencia is called a village, with private homes and villas with all the amenities of a resort. The course is challenging with elevation changes, rolling fairways and sculpted bunkers and gives the illusion of suddenly coming upon an oasis in the desert. U.S. (888) 236-2229), (624) 145-6600.
Mayan Country Club Los Cabos
The course that started it all as San Jose’s Municipal Course is still popular and all spruced up with a new name and a totally refurbished club house. The 3,153-yard, nine-hole, par-35 course doesn’t climb up any mountains, but it’s a fun course. U.S. (866) 465-7316, (624) 142-0905. X
Joan Gonzalez lives in Miami and writes as a freelancer for Herald Custom Publishing’s in-flight magazines and hotel books, for Fodor's South America guides and co-authored Fodor’s first Los Cabos handbook.
