Santa Fe is cookin’.
New Mexican Taco
D. Merriam, Santa Fe Tourism
You know an eatery is good when the parking lot is jammed—the case when we drive up to El Parasol. It came recommended by Pat Brockwell, superintendent at Black Mesa, a gorgeous New Mexico golf course in Espanola, where my wife, Jane, our golf buddy, and I played that morning.
Brockwell, a native Santa Fean, said El Parasol was a “not to miss” when in town. It appeared he told everyone on the course as
evidenced by the line out front. A walk up “restaurant” not much bigger than a Tuff Shed, it got its start in 1958 when Larry and Pete Atencio began selling their mother's tacos and tamales from a roadside stand. To keep the boys shaded from the New Mexican sun, their father, Luis, gave them a colorful beach umbrella and the name stuck (parasol means umbrella in Spanish).
OMG! Muy bueno eats.
After studying the menu boards my wife decided on tacos; one shredded beef, one chicken. Jane ordered chicken enchiladas and I the carne adovada (slowly cooked pork) burrito. Our choices were both flavorful and nicely seasoned; though my burrito bordered on being so spicy my taste buds were going numb. Dollops of guacamole cooled things down. Adjacent to its sibling, El Paragua, a sit down restaurant with a more extensive menu, this laid back spot was a great find.
Night of the Coyote.
At dinner that night, our gang visited the Coyote Cantina, one of Santa Fe's most popular eateries and a more affordable option than its “sister” restaurant the Coyote Café. The five of us started out with Yuzu Ceviche; lime macerated scallops, shrimp and sea bass as well as bowls of freshly made guac and pico de gallo. Soon I found myself staring wide-eyed at my entrée, the Navajo taco de nuevo. As big as a John Daly divot, it was piled with pork, chicken, Kobe beef, beans, lettuce, cheddar and Mexican crème fraiche.
My wife chose the “al Pastor”, a citrus marinated, spit-roasted pork with pineapple. Jane ordered Pescado Blanco; grilled Mahi Mahi served in soft corn tortillas. Ann and Steve selected rotisserie roasted chicken and cheese enchiladas, and the “Chimi” el Gordo, slow braised pork shoulder splashed with “Christmas” sauce—a combo of red and green chile. The cool summer evening on the second-story terrace, the cuisine and the rockin’ crowd made for a fantastic night.
Frito pie and other adventures.
Over the course of four days we sampled a lot of fantastic food at The Shed (New Mexican fare), The Bull Ring (a steakhouse) and the Tesuque Village Market (awesome breakfasts).
A particular treat for my wife and me was the Frito pie, which costs $4.95 at the Five & Dime just off the plaza. After scissoring open a foil bag of Fritos, the server pours in three or four ladles of chili topped with cheese, then onions and jalapenos if desired. Similarly to El Parasol, “pie” lovers are lined up at the back counter sometimes twelve deep. We like taking our New Mexican “comfort food” across to the lawn in the plaza and people watch as we dine. Is Santa Fe great or what?
Next Time: Did your burger make my Santa Fe’s top five?
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